HISTORY & POLITICS
LEGENDARY
PAST
Mongolia has always been a land of mystery. As the Mongol armies
stormed their westwards in the twelfth century, our European leaders feared the
worst. Who were these terrifying warriors and where were they from? The first
envoys returned with incredible stories that stirred the imagination of Europe.
THE
KHAANS
With cunning and ruthlessness, Chinggis Khaan (1162 - 1227) conquered
an area stretching from Beijing to the Caspian Sea and founded the Mongol empire.
Chinggis, however, was just one of many powerful warlords in a succession of rulers
who made their mark in Central Asia.
Khubilai Khaan (circa 1216 - 1294)
moved the centre of the empire from Karakorum to modern day Beijing. He established
his summer camp further north at Shangdu, later immortalised as "Xanadu"
by Samuel Taylor Coleridge. The empire, the largest the world has ever known,
extended from Korea to Hungary and as far south as Vietnam and Java.
THE
MODERN ERA
After the fall of the empire, this remote land fell into obscurity.
Mongolia came under the control of communist Russia. Only recently has this fascinating
land opened its doors. The new democratic Mongolia is discovering its many pasts.
Monks have re-opened the monasteries and Chinggis Khaan is again the celebrated
hero and father of the Mongol people. The nomadic traditions of the steppe are
as much alive today as they were centuries ago. Gers still dot the valleys and
horsemen dressed in deels herd livestock across the vast landscape.
TIMELINE
1500bc - Nomadic pastoralism appears on the steppes
1300bc - Animal Style
art and Deer Stele
900bc - Mounted nomadism established
500bc - Iron commonly
used for weapons and tools
552ad - The Turkish Period (Altai Turks)
1162
- The child Temujin, later to become Chinggis Khaan is born
1189 - Temujin
takes the title Chinggis Khaan meaning Universal King
1206 - Chinggis Khaan
proclaims himself ruler of the Mongol empire
1211 - Chinggis Khaan launches
attack on China
1215 - Khanbalik (Beijing) falls to the Mongols
1227 -
Chinggis Khaan dies
1235 - Karakorum is built by Chinggis' third and favourite
son Ogedei Khaan
1236 - Start of campaigns to Europe and Russia
1246 -
Ogedei's son Guyuk is Khaan for less than a year before dying
1251 - Mongke,
one of Chingghis grandson becomes Khaan
1259 - Khubilai, Mongke's brother
becomes Khaan
1264 - Khubilai Khaan moves the capital from Karakorum to Beijing
1275 - Marco Polo arrives in China
1279 - Khubilai Khaan completes the conquest
of China
1294 - Khubilai Khaan dies
1295 - Mongol invasion of Syria
1368 - Mongols driven out of China
1400 - Civil war in Mongolia
1578 -
Altan Khaan converts to Buddhism and gives the title Dalai Lama to Sonam Gyatso
1586 - Erdene Zuu, Mongolia's first monastery is started
1641 - Zanabazar
proclaimed leader of Buddhists in Mongolia
1911 - Independence from China
1915 - Russia, China and Mongolia sign agreement to grant independence
1919
- Chinese invade Mongolia again
1920 - Chinese defeated; Mongolian Independence
proclaimed by Sukhbaatar
1924 - Bogd Khaan (Holy King dies); Mongolian Peoples
Republic declared by the communists
1939 - Russian and Mongolian troops fight
Japan in Eastern Mongolia
1990 - Pro-democracy protests held; communists win
multi party elections
1996 - Democratic coalition unexpectedly beats Communists
in election
2000 - Communists unexpectedly thrash the Democrats in the election
Back to top
FESTIVALS
NAADAM FESTIVAL
The Naadam Festival
is the biggest event of the Mongolian year! Naadam, which means "games",
is celebrated in every town and village across the country. It features the three
manly sports: wrestling, archery and horse racing. The strongest wrestlers, fastest
horses and expert marksmen come together to compete for the National title.
Imagine
the magnificent spectacle of 500 stallions and their brightly dressed jockeys
thundering bareback over the steppe at the end of a thirty-kilometre race. Imagine
the haunting sound of the jockeys, who are boys and girls as young as six years
old, singing to encourage their horses past the crowd to the finishing post.
This
ancient festival dates back many centuries and was originally created as a celebration
during weddings or spiritual gatherings. It later served as a way to train soldiers
for battle. Chinggis Khan's nine yak tails, representing the nine tribes of the
Mongols, are still ceremonially transported from Sukhbaatar Square to the Stadium
to open the festivities. At these opening and closing ceremonies there are impressive
parades of mounted cavalry, athletes and monks.
The wrestlers display their
strong physique in a warm up "Eagle Dance" whilst their coaches announce
their heroic deeds. Then over a dozen pairs will fight simultaneously in front
of an excited audience. The round ends when one of the contestants touches the
ground with their knee or elbow. Meanwhile, men, women and children compete, shooting
arrows at a target sixty meters away. Since ancient times, this has been accompanied
by singing of folk songs to cheer the competitors on. If you would like to attend
the festival look for the Naadam
Close Up, Gobi
and Heartland in the Classics.
THE REINDEER FESTIVAL
The
Reindeer Festival takes place at the end of June beside Lake Khovsgol in the forested
mountains of Mongolia's most northerly province. The festival is a celebration
of nomadic life, shamanism and Tsataan tradition. The festival pays homage to
the reindeer, spiritual symbol of the Darkhad and the life-blood of Tsataan culture.
The event includes an Opening ceremony praising the spirits of the mountains and
lake, Reindeer Racing and Showing, shaman rituals, craft fair and concert as well
as boasting well-contested traditional Naadam events of Wrestling (in which foreign
gentlemen may enter), Archery and Horseracing. This is a well-organised, atmospheric
day, which is very popular with the local people. If you would like to attend
the festival look for the Mongolian
Odyssey, North
and South in the Classics or the Reindeer
Festival Ride in Expeditions.
THE YAK FESTIVAL
Join local
herders at the annual Yak Festival on 1st and 2nd of August in the northern Khangai
Mountains. The event lakes place in a picturesque valley beneath the extinct "Khorgo"
Volcano at Terkhiin Tsagaan Lake. Nomadic culture is very strong here and the
area has one of the highest concentrations of yaks in the world. The event is
eagerly anticipated by the community and great fun is had by all. The event includes
yak racing and showing, wild stallion and yak rodeo riding, milking contests and
of course the traditional Naadam events of horse racing, wrestling (yes gentlemen,
you can have a go here too) and archery. This is another fantastic, well run festival
in a stunning location. Look for the Nomadic
Encounters itinerary in the Classics if you would like to catch this wonderful
spectacle.
THE EAGLE FESTIVAL
Run by the Mongolian Eagle Hunter's
Association, this festival is held during the first weekend in October. It showcases
the lives and livelihoods of many of the nomadic people of Mongolia's westernmost
province Bayan Olgii. Heavily imbued with neighbouring Kazakhstan's heritage,
culture and language, the people and the landscape are markedly different from
other parts of Mongolia. Dark, rocky mountainous terrain forms the backdrop to
the festivities which incorporate an opening ceremony, parade, cultural exhibitions,
demonstrations and handcrafts in the centre of town followed by sporting activities
and competitions 4km out towards the mountains. Dressed in full eagle hunting
regalia and mounted on groomed decorated horses, the entrants compete for the
awards of Best Turned Out Eagle and Owner; Best Eagle at Hunting Prey and Best
Eagle at Locating Its Owner from a Distance. Other sporting activities include
horse racing, archery and the highly entertaining Bushkashi - goatskin tug of
war on horseback. If you would like to attend the festival look for the Gobi
and Altai
Back
to top
BUDDHISM
During the thirteenth
century, Khubilai Khaan's court had representatives of all the philosophies of
his empire; Islam, Taoism, Christianity, Confucianism and Buddhism. But out of
these, it was Tibetan Buddhism that the great Khaan chose to take on board. Buddhism
was really the religion of the aristocracy, and following the Tibetan Empire's
downfall; shamanism became predominate again until the mid sixteenth century.
In the second half of the sixteenth century, Yellow Hat sect Buddhism was
adopted for political as well as social reasons. In 1578, the Altan Khaan, was
converted by the Tibetan leader Sonam Gyatso, and subsequently, the Khaan bestowed
upon him the title Dalai Lama. Other important lamas were reborn in Mongolia.
The most significant one being the Jebtzun Damba, Tibetan Buddhism's third highest
incarnation. The first reincarnation of this lama was the sculptor and diplomat
Zanabazar.
Up to the early twentieth century, Mongolian reincarnate Lamas
regularly went to Beijing to bless the emperor. Then in 1911, the eighth Jebtzun
Damba, the Bogd Khaan wielded sacred and secular power and declared Mongolia's
independence.
In 1921, the communist government came into power. Not only
did they have a problem with the power of he monasteries and the religion ideologically,
but also they didn't like the fact that the monks didn't work or reproduce. At
that time there were 1,110,000 lamas and 700 monasteries. After the death of the
Bogd Khaan in 1924, they prevented a successor from being found. Some believe
however, that the ninth Jebtzun Damba was reincarnated in Tibet in 1932. It wasn't
until 1999, that as a 67year old man, this Lama visited Mongolia for the first
time. On his visa, he wrote, occupation - Reincarnation of Tibetan deity!
The
purges started in 1929 with the confiscation and redistribution of property and
herds belonging to the monasteries. Arrests and executions in 1932 led to rebellions
and young lamas were conscripted into the army. In 1937 the bloody purge saw Choibalsans
secret police arrested over 17000 monks and virtually none of them were ever seen
again. Only four monasteries survived and were preserved as museums of the feudal
period.
All religious worship and ceremonies was outlawed until 1990. With
the arrival of democracy, the freedom of religion was restored. In the past few
years there has been an extraordinary revival of Buddhism. One of the most appreciated
gifts to families is a picture of the Dalai Lama. His Holiness drew vast crowds
in 2002.
TSAM DANCE
Tsam dances date back to 1737, there complex
theatrical ceremonies have links to shamanism. Monks dressed as fierce protector
deities and folk spirits wear papier-mâché masks decorated with precious
stones and dance around a vast, circular mandala. Occurring in monasteries often
annually, these ritualised ceremonies serve to exorcise evil spirits.
Back
to top
SHAMANISM Shamanism, a form of mysticism,
was the dominant belief system at the time of Chinggis Khaan. Shamanism has deep
connections with the earth. Digging the soil and cutting the grass are seen as
profane. This is the reason why agriculture has traditionally been looked down
upon by Mongolians.
Shamans act as intermediaries between the spirit world
and human world. Shamans live alone in isolation, but are always available to
protect their clan and their herds from disease and evil spirits. Shamans can
go into a trance for as many as six hours to accompany the soul of a dead person
to the other world. Sometimes shamans inherit their powers, and other times their
powers become apparent after a sudden period of sickness.
Ritualised and
theatrical Tsam dances are performed to exorcise evil spirits. The papier-mâché
masks are often implanted with precious stones. The most famous tsam figure is
Tserendug, the White Old Man, a former shamanic figure who is revered as the guardian
of fertility.
Today, shamanism is practised by the Tsaatan, Darkhad, Uriankhai
and Buryat people, who live in the north of Mongolia. The most obvious manifestations
of shamanism are the Ovoo.
OVOOS
Throughout Mongolia, on the
crest of hills and passes, one finds Ovoos, ubiquitous piles of stones. The building
of these structures is an ancient custom that proceeded Buddhism and even Shamanism.
These cairns were likely to have originally been tombstones related to archaic
funeral cults. Later they became shamanistic altars. Consequently they are closely
related to the cult of ancestral spirits.
Each clan has its particular
Ovoo, which marks the symbolic limits of the clan's territory. Rituals, offering
food and sacrifices, to the souls of the dead, spirits of nature, earth and water,
are carried out to guarantee the protection of the spirits over that land.
The
communists tried to rid the countryside of Ovoos, they condemned them as suspicious
and backward. But regardless of past political and religious changes, the ovoo
has maintained its importance.
Mongolians circle the ovoo three times in
a clockwise direction. Their circumambulations are in the same direction as the
stars and sun; Mongolians hope to join the cosmic process. Not so cosmic are the
items left as offerings. Today ovoos have scattered upon them car parts, empty
bottles and matchboxes. A lame person may place a crutch upon the ovoo. These
offerings are not seen as junk but as meaningful gifts.
Back
to top
NOMADIC CULTURE
GERS
Over half of the Mongolian population live in Gers. These round, squat tents are
ideal for the nomads way of life, for they are easily collapsed and moved. They
are made from quick drying felt which can withstand harsh winds, rain and snow.
They are always put up so that the door is facing south towards the Sun.
There
are many superstitions and beliefs associated with living in a Ger. The hearth
symbolises links with the ancestors and thus it is a sin to desecrate it in any
way. There are very particular places and methods for things inside a Ger. The
Northern wall opposite the door is an honoured place; this is where one often
finds an altar with framed photos upon it. Men keep their saddle and koumiss bag
on the western side of the Ger, here they believe they are protected by heaven.
The women keep their utensils to the eastern side of the Ger where they are looked
after by the sun.
Mongolian's are aware that visitors from
other countries do not share the same traditions and are not likely to be offended
by guest's cultural "faux pas". However adhering to the believes and
social codes is good practise and will be respected by your hosts.
GER
ETIQUETTE
1. There is no need to knock on the brightly painted door
of a Ger. Instead, call out "Nokhoi khor" which literally means, "Hold
the dog".
2. Say "hello" (Sain Bainu) when you arrive, but
don't repeat it to the same person later.
3. As you enter a Ger, avoid stepping
on or leaning over the threshold or knocking your head on the doorframe.
4.
Never lean against the support columns of a Ger.
5. As a guest, go to the
back of the Ger in a clockwise direction. Try not to turn your back to the altar
or religious objects.
6. Try not to point your feet at the hearth, the altar
or at another person.
7. If you have stepped on someone, or kicked their
feet, immediately shake their hand.
8. Keep you sleeves rolled down so as
to avoid exposing your wrists.
9. Pick up everything with an open hand,
with your palm facing upwards. Never take food from a communal plate with your
left hand.
10. Hold a cup by the bottom and not by the top rim.
11.
Always receive gifts with your right hand supported at the elbow by your left
arm.
12. Avoid touching another person's hat.
13. Try not to spill
milk - it is sacred.
14. Try never to refuse what is offered to you. If
you don't like what you have been given, take a small sip or bite (or pretend
to) and leave the rest on the table. An empty plate is seen as a signal that you
are still hungry and your plate or bowl will be refilled.
15. An older man
may offer his snuffbox to a male visitor. If you want some snuff empty a tiny
portion onto your hand between your downward facing index finger and thumb. Raise
your hand to a nostril, take a long deep inhalation and smile widely. If you don't
want any, just go through the motions and smile appreciatively. If the snuffbox
is empty, don't make any comment and pretend there is some. Pass back the snuffbox
in the upturned palm of your right hand.
16. It is not rude to come and
go as you please in a Ger. Even taking a short nap is considered perfectly acceptable.
17.
Sleep with your feet pointing towards the door.
18. Leave weapons outside.
Don't point a knife in any way at anyone. Pass a knife handle first and always
use the knife to cut towards you.
19. Mongolians are superstitious of any
writing in red ink.
20. Avoid stamping out or putting water or rubbish on
a fire, for fire is sacred to the Mongolians.
21. Avoid walking over an
uurga (a lasso on a pole).
22. Avoid walking in front of an older person.
Back
to top
HORSE CULTURE
Mongolia's history
and culture is inextricably linked to horses. Nomads learn to ride as soon as
they can walk to a horse. The Mongolian language is imbued with the omnipresence
of the horse culture. For instance horse references are found in terms of respect
for welcoming someone "have you ridden well?" or "ride in peace".
When a nomad wants to indicate that they are going to the bathroom, they simply
say that they are "going to see my horse". The word for "poor"
is formed from the verb "to go on foot".
Unlike Westerners, Mongolians
don't give their horses names. They consider it enough to distinguish them by
their colour. Their vocabulary is so precise in terms for the nuances of a horse's
coat that despite the number of horses in vicinity, there is never any confusion
about which horse he is referring to.
Back
to top
FLORA & FAUNA & NATURAL HERITAGE
Few countries in the Northern Hemisphere compare to Mongolia in the size, diversity
and health of its natural ecosystems. Here the high Altai Mountains, Siberian
taiga forest, Central Asian steppe and vast Gobi desert converge to provide a
variety of habitats and rich biodiversity.
Mongolia is a wild treasure with
over 150 endemic plants and a list of internationally endangered animal species
including snow leopard, saiga antelope, argali sheep, Gobi bear, wild ass and
white-napped crane. Przewalski's horse has been successfully reintroduced here
into the wild after an extensive breeding programme overseas.
Mongolians
have a deep respect for their natural heritage. Conservationists by tradition,
they have relied directly on the land for food and materials since ancient times.
They are proud to have had the world's first nature reserve. Today 13.2% of the
country is protected, with a targeted increase to 30%.
Mongolia is the habitat
of 140 mammal species, 390 bird, 20 reptile and 76 fish species. Because this
zone has been spared from harmful human activity, it provides habitats for representative
and often rare species. There are an estimated 28 species of endangered mammals
living in Mongolia. This includes the wild ass, wild camel, Gobi argali sheep,
Gobi bear, Ibex and black tailed gazelle as well as various wolves, antelopes
and jerboas. There are also 59 species of endangered birds including many species
of hawk, falcon, buzzard, crane and owl.
Many specimens of Mongolian flora
have yet to be classified. Of the 150 endemic plants in the country, more than
100 are listed as endangered or rare species. In the 1990's worlds most primitive
horse, the takhi (Prewalski's horse), was reintroduced into protected reserves,
after thirty years of extinction in the wild.
All of our itineraries take
time to enjoy Mongolia's flora and fauna. Contact us to find out which best suits
your interests.
Back
to top
ARTS
Turkic man stones from the sixth
to eighth centuries can be found throughout Mongolia. Almost all face East and
are figures wearing a belt, holding a sword and bowl. Also one can find three
to five meter high deer stones dating from the bronze and iron ages on which are
carved stylised images of deer.
Mongolia has developed unique forms of
music, dance, costume, drama, painting, sculpture handicrafts, carpets and textiles.
Mongolian art is reflective of nomadic life, the spirit of the landscape and Buddhism.
Its cultural heritage consists of Hun, Ruan-Ruan, Yenisei Kirghiz, Jurchen, Turkish
and Uighur, and a mix of influences from India and Tibet.
Like in other
Buddhist countries, religion dominates Mongolian arts. Traditional Mongol "Zurag"
style paintings were small, so that they could be easily transported. Later larger
canvases were used and the art of appliqué developed. This became a national
speciality, particularly at Urga, modern day Ulaanbaatar. Some of these can reach
sixteen metres in height.
From the days of the Mongol Empire, Mongolian
art has also exerted its influence on other cultures such as the Persian art of
the thirteenth century.
Mongolia's most renowned painter was Balduudiyn
Sharav. One his most popular works depicts the culture and traditions of his time,
"A Day In Life." Mongolia's most remarkable and versatile figures was
the sculptor Zanabaza. At the age of three he was deemed to be a saint, and was
therefore sent to Tibet to study Buddhism under the Dalai Lama. While here, he
learnt the skills of bronze casting. When he returned to Mongolia, he was responsible
for a renaissance in the countries art. As well as being the countries most important
sculptor, he became a political figure and the reformer of Mongolian script.
Since
the end of Soviet repression, Mongolia has been enjoying another cultural renaissance.
MUSIC
Music is very important in the Mongolian countryside,
where friends get together and have a singsong. The traditional songs are often
about their animals, homeland, environment and nomadic life. Love and the countryside
are also the subjects of the Long songs, which can have as many as 20,000 verses!
The different landscapes of Mongolia are said to be reflected in the range
of sounds that Khoomi singers can make simultaneously. Khoomi is a traditional
form of singing, which comes from deep in the throat.
The most traditional
of instrument s is the morin huur; this horse headed fiddle has two horsehair
strings. It is said that the sounds that it produces are similar to the noises
the nomads' animals make.
Back
to top
Click on the map to go directly to the regions
The capital city of Mongolia is a mixture of traditional and modern.
The ornate flowing eaves of the monastery temples stand beside communist planned
courtyards and modern sky scrapers. The city is bussling with Mongolians dressed
in suits as well as traditional deels.
It boasts some impressive museums and
a wide selection of restaurants. It is a great place to pick up some quality cashmere.
It is situated on the Tuul river surrounded by mountains, more significantly
the four holy peaks, to the north, south, east and west, which make a wonderful
backdrop. The southern peak, Bogd Khaan Uul, is one of the oldest nature reserves
in the world and has been protected since1778. In winter it is not uncommon to
see deer walking the streets in the mornings.
Back
to top
Bogd Khaan Palace (Ulaanbaatar)
The Winter
Palace of the Bogd Khaan was built between 1893 and1903. For 20 years was home
to Jebtzun Damba Hutagt VIII, Mongolia's eighth Living Buddha and last king. There
are six temples in the grounds aswell as the Winter Palace which contains gifts
from foreign dignitaries.
Back
to top
Choijin Lama (Ulaanbaatar)
Built between
1904 and 1908 this monastery is also known as the Museum of Religion. The monastery
was home to the state oracle and brother of the Bogd Khaan. The museum holds some
fine scroll paintings and some of the best tsam masks in the country.
Back
to top
Gandan Khiid (Ulaanbaatar)
Gandantegchinlen Khiid (Gandan for short) is the largest and most important monastery
in Mongolia. The monastery's main attraction is the magnificent white Migjid Janraisig
Temple which houses a 25m high, 20 ton guilded statue. It is a working monastery
with ceremonies every morning and 150 monks in residence.
Back
to top
Sukhbaatar Square (Ulaanbaatar)
Impressive
and expansive Sukhbaatar Square in the heart of the city, named after the hero
of the revolution who declared Mongolia’s final independence from the Chinese.
His statue takes centre stage in front of the Parliament building and looking
south towards Peace Avenue.
Back
to top
National History Museum (Ulaanbaatar)
The
National History Museum, renovated in 1998, is a comprehensive and well-laid out
showcase of key points in Mongolia's history. Journey through key facts and artefacts
from the Bronze age, the Mongol Empire of Genghis Khaan, to the communist Russian
years and the democratic revolution of the early 1990s. Learn about nomadic pastoralism
of the steppes and the different ethnic groups of Mongolia.
Back
to top
Cashmere Shopping (Ulaanbaatar)
Mongolia produces about 3,000 tons of cashmere per year, about 21 % of the
world market. Many quality cashmere products can be found at low prices. The Gobi
company has a store on Peace Avenue and also a factory shop on the outskirts of
town. Other central shops include Elite, Goyo - and the State Department Store
has a range of cashmere labels all under one roof.
Back
to top
State Department Store (Ulaanbaatar)
The
largest retail outlet in Mongolia, the State Department Store contains a variety
of goods all under one roof - food, elctronic equipment, music, cashmere, great
value clothes including cheap North Face jackets, plus a whole floor of traditional
Mongolian souvenirs.
Back
to top
Narantuul Black Market (Ulaanbaatar)
The
Central Market - or Black Market/Narantuul as it is commonly known - is a giant
flea market 4km from the centre of town. It's a great place to enjoy the hustle
and bustle of Mongolian traders, pick up some riding boots or material for getting
a deel tailor-made. Be very vigilant at all times, as pickpockets targetting tourists
abound , and leave valuables (cameras, iPods) at the hotel.
Back
to top
| N
O R T H E R N M O N G O L I A |
Mountains, rivers, forests and the vast Lake Khovsgol are key features of this
region. The far reaches of the North are home to the reclusive Dukha reindeer
herders. Shamanism is still widley practised here.
Back
to top
Khovsgol Lake
Known as the Blue Pearl of
Mongolia, Lake Khovsgol is one of the country's top attractions. Surrounded by
mountains covered with pine forests and lush meadows the crystal-clear alpine
lake is part of the 838,000-hectare Khovsgol Nuur National Park.
Containing
between 1% and 2% of the world's fresh water it is the second largest lake in
Central Asia, after Siberia's Lake Baikal. It is 136 kilometres long and 36 kilometres
wide stretching from north to south and at 1645m above sea level it's whole length
is frozen from January to May.
The lake is full of fish such as lenok (of
the trout family) and sturgeon. The lake attracts over 200 species of birds such
as Baikal teal, bar-headed goose, black syork and Altai snowcock. The surrounding
mountains are home to 68 species of mammal including musk deer, brown bear, lynx,
marten, beaver, elk, reindeer, moose, argali, ibex and wolf.
Three separate
peoples live in the area; the Darkhad, Buryats and Tsaatan. The latter herd reindeer
and depend on them for most of their needs. The region has strong shamanic roots.
This is a wonderful place for walking and riding, fishing or simply sucking
in the fresh air and spectaclar views.
Back
to top
Muron (Khovsgol)
Muron is the lively capital
of Khovsgol province and bears the hallmarks of being a trading outpost close
to the border with Russian Siberia, in that it is slightly wild and rough around
the edges. However, this adds to its charm and unique atmosphere - none more so
at the bustling market in the centre of town. Local hero Davaadorj, who fought
against the Japanese at Khalkhiin Gol in 1939, is immortalised with a statue in
the town's main square.
Back
to top
Khoridol Saridag Mountains (Khovsgol)
The
Khoridol Saridag Mountains to the west of Lake Khovsgol are home to 68 species
of mammal including musk deer, brown bear, lynx, marten, beaver, elk, reindeer,
moose, argali, ibex and wolf. Here the teepee dwelling Dukha folk herd reindeer,
and the region has strong shamanic roots.
Back
to top
Renchinlhumbe (Khovsgol)
The
small town of Renchinlhumbe is located in the remote Khoridol Saridag mountains,
and is an outpost in the wild terrain of this Darhad valley. The town provides
a convenient stopover and supply point mid-way through a horse trek.
Back
to top
| S
O U T H E R N M O N G O L I A |
The Gobi desert with it's stark but varied landscape extends across Southern Mongolia
and beyond into China. Camel herders continue to survive the harsh conditions
here, living from their herds and sale of cashmere wool.
Back to top
Baga
Gazriin Chuluu (Dundgov)
Enroute South to the Gobi from Ulaanbaatar mountain
chains break the desert horizon. Baga Gazriin Chuluu is an area of rounded rock
formations perched beside dramatic granite gorges and small valleys. Two revered
monks lived here in the 19th Century. Their rock drawings can still be found in
the area. Locals sometimes make pilgrimages here. Nearby the Oasis of Khokh Burd
attracts migrating birds.
Back
to top
Ongiin Khiid (Dundgov)
The ruined monastery
lies in two halfs on the banks of the Ongiin river. It was destroyed by the communist
purges of the thirties and is being restored by a number of monks. It is an amazing
site and stretches across the valley in the mountainous area around the river.
Back
to top
Bayanzag Flaming Cliffs (Omnogov)
This is
one of the most famous palaeontological sites in the world. Roy Chapman Andrews
discovered the world's first nest of dinosaur eggs here in 1922. During his groundbreaking
expedition, the team unearthed over 100 dinosaurs and discovered the earliest
known mammal skulls. Roy, who is widely regarded as the model on which the Hollywood
screen character Indiana Jones was based, named the famous site the "Flaming
Cliffs" after the red sandstone buttes and cliffs that glow at sunset.
Subsequent
Gobi expeditions have added to our understanding of life in the late Cretaceous
period (70 million years ago), the last phase of dinosaur dominance before mammals
inherited the earth. Many of these finds are on display at the Natural History
Museum in Ulaanbaatar. The Mongolian name Bayanzag means "rich in saxual
shrubs." These shrubs are a valuable source of fuel for the local people,
the wood is very dense and will sink in water. They are also home to a number
of species of wildlife. This is a sureally beautiful place where a dazzling sun
illuminates the dramatic features of the valley of the dinosaurs.
Back to top
Khongoryn Els Singing Dunes (Omnogov)
These are some of the largest
sand dunes in Mongolia, 180 kilometers long and up to 800 metres high. A climb
to the top gives amazing views across the dunes and the surrounding desert.
On
the northern edge of the dunes lies the Khongoryn river which provides an oasis
rich in plantation and supplies drinking water for wildlife in the region. Gobi
people are particularly good at managing the limited resources in the harsh environment.
This desert area is inhabited by traditional camel herders and so is a great place
to learn about these facinating animals and ride them across the desert.
Back
to top
Yolyn Am (Omnogov)
Yoln Am means "Lammergeyer's
mouth" after the huge raptors that inhabit this deep ravine in the Gurvan
Saikhan Mountains of the Gobi Desert. The lammergeyers, or bearded vulture, are
famous for their skill of dropping bones from a height onto rocky sites, smashing
them open so that the marrow is accessible.
The rare and shy snow leopard
still prowls these mountains, though you are more likely to see ibex or Argali
sheep with their huge horns tiptoeing their way across the sheer rock faces above.
Meanwhile hordes of Pallas's Pikas scamper around their colonies at ground level
keeping an eye out for hawks and other predators.
Even in the heat of the
summer months, one can find ice remaining from the winter in shaded corners of
this valley. Here delightful wildflowers grow beside aromatic juniper bushes which
are burnt as offerings in Mongolia's temples.
Back
to top
| C
E N T R A L M O N G O L I A |
From open steppeland to mountains and sand dunes, the heartland is a landscape
of rich natural diversity. Nomadic pastoralism shares a stage with cultural and
historical highlights, including the ancient capital of Karakorum.
Back to top
Bayangobi (Ovorhangai)
Bayangobi, the most Northern part of the
Gobi, is a unique combination of Bat Khaan mountains and desert- type sand dunes
- the Mongol Els - which run for a distance of 200 kms. It is home to families
of camel herders and provides a heartland alternative to the Gobi desert in the
South.
Back
to top
Khustai Nuruu National Park
Takhi Horses (Tov)
In the 1990's, the world's most primitive horse, the
Takhi (Przewalski's Horse) was reintroduced into Khustai Nuruu National Park after
thirty years of extinction in the wild. Their shape and colour is very distinct
from other horses and they tend to have zebra-like stripes at the base of their
tails.
The park is great for walks and a climb up one of the hills reveals
the immense scale of the countryside whilst eagles and falcons soar overhead.
This desert/steppe environment is also home to maral deer, steppe gazelle, boar,
wolf and lynx.
Back
to top
Kharkhorin (Ovorkhangai) and
Erdene Zuu
Formerly known as Karakorum, this was the capital of the empire
when in 1220, Chinggis Khaan decided to move here from the Onon Valley in Khentii.
Several earlier successful civilisations made their capitals in the fertile Orkhon
valley, of which Chinggis was well aware. He used it as a supply point for his
armies. It was not only where the armies weapons were cast, it was where the food
was grown. Artisans from all across the empire were brought here to embellish
the city.
Famed for their religious tolerance, the Khaans split their time
equally between the different faiths and twelve religions co-existed within the
town. Foreign and Mongol coins were both legal tender. After the move to Beijing
, and the fall of the empire, Karakorum was abandoned and then destroyed by vengeful
Manchurian soldiers in 1388.
The remains of the city were used to help
build Erdenne Zuu (Hundred Treasures) the first Buddhist monastery in 16th century.
Many of the treasures are on display at the temple museum and in the Tibetan style
Lavrin temple where each morning the monks are called to service by the conch
blowers. At it's height, up to 1000 monks were in residence. Not a single nail
was used in the construction of the ornate temples according to a Tibetan design
which are contained within in the monastery walls. 108 stupas are spaced evenly
along the walls which enclose an area of 1,600 square metres, which is exactly
10 times smaller than the original city.
Back
to top
Chuluutin Gol Gorge (Arkhangai)
This dramatic gorge runs along a fault line and the river below is a
great fishing spot. Nearby, an ancient forest protects a vast tree covered in
offerings including blue Khadags (ceremonial scarves). This is a famous tree and
local legend tells that if you have lost something, when you sleep beneath the
branches you will wake and remember where it is.
Back
to top
Kultegin Monument (Arkhangai)
This impressive
monolith is dedicated in 732 AD, to the Turkish prince, Kultegin (684-731 AD).
The Turkic State existed in Mongolia between 6th and 8th centuries. The monument
is inscribed with ancient Runic script and at the back, Chinese characters.
Back
to top
Ogii Nuur (Arkhangai)
This lake is a wonderful
place for birdlife such as cranes, ducks, and many other migratory species.
It is also famous for its fishing and is full of perch, pike and catfish. Ogii
Nuur's tranquile shores serve as an excellent base from which to visit local archaelogical
sites.
Back
to top
Taikhar Chuluu (Arkhangai)
This enormous rock formation that sticks straight out of the ground is the
subject of many local legends the most popular being that a great hero squashed
a huge serpent that was terrorising the lands around. There are pleasant walks
along the banks of the nearby river.
Back
to top
Tariat & Volcano (Arkhangai)
A small
town and regional centre close to Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur where the people of the
surounding lands hold an annual Yak Festival. This is the gateway to the 77,267
hectare Khorgo-Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur National Park which is provides good pasture
for horses and yaks, goats and sheep. This traditional town is a great place to
witness the Naadam Festival.
Back
to top
Terkhiin Tsagaan Nuur (Arkhangai)
Meaning
"Great White Lake," Tsagaan Nuur was formed by lava flows many millenia
ago. It is surrounded by extinct and craterous volcanoes which offer some great
walking oppertunities. The local inhabitants are yak herders who live a typically
traditional nomadic lifestyle, moving to higher pastures in the winter and returning
to the fertile valleys around the lake in summer. This astonishingly beautiful
crystal clear lake is renound for its fish and birdlife, including the ruddy shellduck
and great cormorant.
Back
to top
Tsetserleg (Arkhangai)
This town is ringed
by scenic mountains overlooked by a small temple perched on Bogd Uul (holy mountain)
to the north. The Zayin temple museum has some great exhibitions on traditional
mongolian life and ancient artifacts. The town also has a very lively market.
Back
to top
Tsenkheriin Hot Springs (Arkhangai)
Water
pulses out of the ground at a remarkable 86 degrees C and contains hydrogen sulphide.
The springs have been managed to give a slightly less scorching temperature which
makes a relaxing bathe in a lush valley south of Tsetserleg.
Back
to top
Khogno Khaan & Uvgun Khiid
(Bulgan)
Between Ulaanbaatar and Kharkhorin lies this red rocky mountain
(1967m) and 46,500 hectare natural reserve. It is a perfect place for walking
and horse riding and good for spotting ibex, wolves and many varieties of hawk.
The ruins of Uvgun monastery are hidden in one of its numerous valleys in the
southern slope. The monastery was destroyed by by the armies of Zungar Galdan
Boshigtu, a rival of Zanabazar in 1640. The current monastery was reopened in
1992 and includes a number of interesting, beautifully decorated temples in this
tranquil setting which look out across the plains.
Also worth exploring
are the Mongol Els sand dunes that stretch southward from the mountain.
Back
to top
Tsogt Taij Palace (Bulgan)
On the banks of the Tuul river lies the ruined fortifications of Tsogt Taij (1580-1637).The
Khalkh Mongol prince is famous for is fierce resistence to Manchu expansion.
Although
the Prince was defeated and the palace set alight, much of the impressive stonework
remains intact.
Back
to top
| W
E S T E R N M O N G O L I A |
The wilds of the Altai Mountains, Mongolia's highest range, form the rugged backdrop
to this Kazakh populated area. Muslim culture and the practice of hunting with
eagles contribute to the unique heritage of the region.
Back
to top
Altai Mountains (Bayan-Ulgii)
The Altai is Mongolia's highest mountain range, known in Bayan-Ulgii as 'the
Roof of the World', where snow-capped peaks, torrents and glaciers form the backdrop
to the indigenous practice of hunting with eagles. The remote rugged range spreads
from the Russian border all the way down to Altai-Gobi province in the south.
Back to top
Bayannuur (Bayan-Ulgii)
The area surrounding
Bayannuur is characterised by vast rocky plains, valleys and mountains rising
up from the remote terrain. This is the territory of the eagle hunters, who train
their birds to catch prey from the wilds of the countryside - including marmots,
foxes and wolves.
Back
to top
Khokh Serkh (Bayan-Ulgii)
Blue Goat (Khokh
Serkh) Strictly Protected Area is a haven for fauna, including argali sheep, ibex,
maral (Asiatic red deer), stone marten, deer, elk, Altai snowcock and eagles.
There are also several caves and hot springs in the park, and plenty of opportunities
for hiking and horse trekking.
Back
to top
Lake Tolbo (Bayan-Ulgii)
Lake Tolbo (Tolbo
means 'frog') is a freshwater lake at a height of 2,080 metres, and with its tree-less
shoreline it has an almost eerie, but at the same time magical, feel to it. The
water looks inviting but is ice cold! It once formed the backdrop for a major
battle between the Bolsheviks and the White Russians.
Back
to top
Dayan Lake (Bayan-Ulgii)
Dayan is the largest
lake in Bayan-Ulgii province, covering an area of 5,300 hectares. It's a great
spot to fish for lenok, grayling and others., and birdlife is abundant.
Back
to top
Khoton Lake (Bayan-Ulgii)
Khoton is a mountain
lake with crystal clear water. The dramatic landscape is formed of sprawling valleys
and patches of larch forests. North-west of the lake the mountains close in and
there are some great trekking opportunities.
Back
to top
Potanin Glacier (Bayan-Ulgii)
The 20km long
Potanin glacier runs down from the highest mountains in Mongolia and provides
an excellent base for trekking and climbing the surrounding peaks.
Back
to top
Ulgii (Bayan-Ulgii)
The capital of the westernmost
aimag, Ulgii is a predominantly Kazakh city that happens to be in Mongolia. Muslim
influence is widespread - from street signs, religion, clothes and food, and gives
the town its special atmosphere.
Back
to top
BEIJING
Beijing fell to Chinggis Khaan in 1215 and in 1264, his grandson Khublai,
made it his capital "Khanbalik." Kublai was the emperor of China's Yuan
Dynasty (1271-1368). When he assumed the throne he introduced measures to revive
the Chinese economy. He reconstructed agriculture, restored the country's infrastructure
and promoted trade throughout the empire and with Europe. Kublai also initiated
the creation of the first paper currency ststem. This was the China which Marco
Polo and other travellers visited described in their journals to an amazed Europe.
The oldest buildings in Beijing today date from Kublais reign. The hutongs
and Drum Tower mark the centre of the old Mongol Empire.
Beijing offers some
of the worlds most spectacular structures including the Forbidden City, Temple
of Heaven, Gardens of the Summer Palace, Tianenmen Square and to the north of
the city, The Great Wall.
Back
to top
Forbidden City (Beijing)
Constructed on the site of a palace dating back to Kublai Khaan, the Forbidden
City was home to two dynasties of emperors, the Ming and the Qing, who did not
stray from their pleasure dome unless they absolutely had to. The land was governed
from within these walls and was off limits to commoners for 500 years until the
1911 revolution.
Back
to top
Great Wall of China (Beijing)
The Great Wall dates back to the third century BC and extends over more than 4000
miles. Seperate walls, constructed by independent kingdoms were linked when China
was unified under Emperor Qin Shi-huang (221-207BC). The effort required required
hundreds of thousands of workers many of whom died and were buried in the wall
itself. This is why it is sometimes known as the "Wall of Tears." We
enjoy a picnic with awsome views accross the rolling hills north towards Mongolia.
Back
to top
Hutongs (Beijing)
The word hutong
came from the Mongolian language about 700 years ago. They are typical of the
old part of Beijing and are formed by lines of siheyuan (a compound made up of
rooms around a courtyard ) in which most Beijing residents used to live. Hutongs
are characterised by narrow winding lanes, with street sellers and rickshaws crowding
the bustling and vibrant alleyways.
Back
to top
Summer Palace (Beijing)
The
Summer Palace, Yiheyhun, was the summer retreat for the imperial family of the
late Qing Dynasty. The man-made Kumming Lake takes up a large proportion of the
area, complete with a marble boat. The famous Long Corridor - 795 yards long -
runs parallel to the lake. Other highlights include the pavilions, palaces and
halls, but it is the grounds with their extraordinary gardens that are the main
attraction.
Back
to top
Tiananmen Square (Beijing)
The centre of
the Chinese universe and the world's largest public square. Here in 1949 Mao Zedong
proclaimed the Public's Republic of China to an audience of 500,000.
Back
to top
Trans-Mongolian Train
This famous train
journey between Beijing and Ulaanbaatar follows below the Great Wall for a stretch
before reaching the Gobi desert. We share two and four berth compartments with
other members of the group. The train stops at the border between China and Mongolia
to change the bogies as the two railways use different gauges.
Back
to top
BACKGROUND
